Guides still say that Phnom Penh is "a must-stop, a day is enough." We disagree. This is the city where we settled, the one we show our friends when they come to visit, and for us, it is a more accurate mirror of contemporary Cambodia than Angkor is of ancient Cambodia. This page is what we would say over a coffee facing the river to someone arriving for the first time.
The duty of memory: S-21 and Choeung Ek
One cannot understand today's Cambodia without visiting S-21 and the Killing Fields. Between 1975 and 1979, the Khmer Rouge exterminated nearly a quarter of the Cambodian population. The two most famous sites in Phnom Penh — the former high school turned interrogation center, and the execution site of Choeung Ek located 15 km away — document this episode with rare sobriety and accuracy. These are places of memory, not tourist attractions. Visitors should go on an empty stomach, refrain from laughter, and avoid taking selfies. These are slow visits that will change you.
Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21)
A former high school in central Phnom Penh, transformed into a prison and interrogation center by the Khmer Rouge. Of the approximately 20,000 people who entered, only a dozen came out alive (seven adults and five children, one of whom died shortly after liberation). The cells, torture beds, and meticulously archived photographs of prisoners are presented without sensationalism. The visit lasts about 2 hours with the audio guide.
Entrance: 5 USD (non-Cambodian adult); audio guide 3 USD extra, available in French and highly recommended — survivor and guard testimonies are essential. Open daily from 8 AM to 5 PM. Cash payment only.
Choeung Ek Memorial Center (Killing Fields)
Located 17 km southwest of central Phnom Penh, this is one of the main execution sites used by the regime. A memorial stupa houses the skulls and bones of several thousand victims, displayed without voyeurism, in a deliberate gesture to not forget. The audio guide, remarkably written, makes the visit an almost intimate experience despite the other visitors.
Entrance: 6 USD with audio guide included (French available). Open daily from 8 AM to 5:30 PM. Travel from the center: 30 to 40 minutes by tuk-tuk (15 USD round trip with waiting), 25 minutes by air-conditioned taxi.
Our recommended order
S-21 in the morning, Choeung Ek in the afternoon. The chronological order of events — interrogation followed by execution — gives the visit its historical and emotional coherence. Plan for a full day, and avoid scheduling a light activity right after. A calm lunch in the city between the two sites, without an agenda, is ideal.
Many operators offer a half-day combination — it's too short. Take your time.
The Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda
The official residence of the King of Cambodia, construction began in 1866 under King Norodom, coinciding with the transfer of the capital from Oudong to Phnom Penh. The complex combines traditional Khmer architecture with discreet French colonial elements — the Napoleon III pavilion, a cast-iron villa that arrived by boat in the 1870s (the legend suggests it was a gift from Napoleon III to Norodom after the Suez Canal, a version contested by recent research), is the most singular curiosity. The Silver Pagoda within the complex gets its name from the 5,329 solid silver tiles (1.125 kg each) that pave its floor — protected by a carpet today, but one square is left visible at the entrance for visitors to see.
Entrance: 10 USD (40,000 riels), combined ticket for Royal Palace + Silver Pagoda. Open daily from 8 AM to 11 AM and from 2 PM to 5 PM — note the midday closure. Proper attire required: shoulders and knees covered (sarongs are lent for free at the entrance if necessary). Photography is allowed outside, prohibited inside the Silver Pagoda.
The National Museum of Cambodia
Right next to the Royal Palace, in a beautiful ochre building of traditional Khmer style inaugurated in 1920. It houses the largest collection of classical Khmer art in the world — sculptures from Angkor, ceramics, bronzes, ritual objects from the 6th to the 13th century. It is best to visit before heading to Angkor: the original statues are displayed here (those at the temples are often copies), and you will understand much better what you will see next in the archaeological park.
Entrance: 10 USD. Open daily from 8 AM to 5 PM. Audio guide in French available for a few extra dollars — highly recommended. Plan for 1.5 to 2 hours for the visit.
The hidden museums you won't be shown
Phnom Penh has several museums that most travelers overlook, and it's a shame: some are among the most original in Southeast Asia. Modern scenography, beautiful buildings, low or free entrance fees, and almost no one in the halls. Here are those we consistently recommend to the curious.
SOSORO — Museum of Economy and Money
Full name: Preah Srey Içanavarman Museum of Economy and Money. Opened in 2019 by the National Bank of Cambodia, in a sumptuous building from 1908 — the former town hall of the French protectorate, just steps from the river. Inside, 2,000 years of Cambodian history told through money: gold coins from the 7th century minted under King Içanavarman, to Khmer Rouge regime banknotes that never circulated (Pol Pot abolished currency), up to the re-establishment of the modern riel. Interactive scenography, screens, reconstructions, texts in Khmer / English / French. It's much more captivating than it sounds: you leave with a perspective on the country that no classic guide provides.
Entrance: 20,000 riels (about 5 USD) for foreigners, 32,000 riels (about 8 USD) with audio guide — we highly recommend the audio guide version, as it transforms the visit from interesting to fascinating (detailed narration over 12 modules, available in French, English, Khmer, Chinese, Japanese, Korean). Reduced rates for Cambodians (4,000 riels / 16,000 riels) and students (2,000 riels / 14,000 riels). Open Tuesday to Sunday from 9 AM to 6 PM, closed on Monday. Plan for 1.5 to 2 hours. 106 Street, opposite the central post office.
Bophana Center
Co-founded in 2006 by filmmaker Rithy Panh (S-21, the Khmer Rouge Death Machine) and Ieu Pannakar, inaugurated on December 4, 2006, the Bophana Center is located in the "White House," a 1960s building whose style evokes Le Corbusier and Cambodian architect Vann Molyvann, a survivor of the Khmer Rouge and restored in 2006. It is a free access audiovisual archive center: you can sit at a consultation station and dive into tens of thousands of hours of footage — films by the Lumière brothers shot in Cambodia at the very beginning of the 20th century, feature films made by King Norodom Sihanouk, sound archives, photographs, contemporary documentaries. Temporary exhibitions and public screenings occur regularly in the auditorium. It is a living memory space, run by a team of passionate young Cambodians.
Entrance: free. Open Monday to Friday from 8 AM to 12 PM and 2 PM to 6 PM, Saturday 2 PM–6 PM. 64 Street 200, Daun Penh district.
Factory Phnom Penh
Not a museum in the classical sense, but a cultural space we love: a former textile factory of 3.4 hectares converted into the largest creative hub in Southeast Asia. Alleys covered in street art, galleries of Cambodian artists (including FT Gallery & Studio, the country's first urban art gallery), coworking spaces, designer shops, concerts, weekend markets, restaurants, and bars. To feel the Phnom Penh of the new generation — one that grows far from the images of genocide and reinvents a local creative scene.
Entrance: free. 1159 National Road 2 (parking access via Hun Sen Boulevard), 15–20 minutes by tuk-tuk from the center. Programming available on factoryphnompenh.com.
Practical note: the central train station of Phnom Penh is a beautiful Art Deco building from 1932, worth a look if you are passing through the area. It is not strictly a museum, but the architecture is worth the detour, and it is from here that trains depart to Sihanoukville and Poipet (mostly on weekends).
Kanika cruise on the Mekong
This is our boat. Originally, we bought it to host friends and family at the end of their days in Phnom Penh. Word of mouth has made the Kanika the highest-rated sunset cruise in the capital. Two hours on the water, at the exact confluence of the Mekong and Tonle Sap, with views of the Royal Palace on the city side and the countryside on the opposite side. A cocktail in hand on the upper deck, wooden chairs, the orange light of the last minutes of the day on the river.
You can directly continue with a dinner on board: same boat, same chairs on the deck, Khmer and international cuisine served at the table while the city lights up. This is what we recommend when someone asks us "the most beautiful evening in Phnom Penh in one activity" — we are obviously part of that lot, but the opinion is shared by most independent guides.
Book the Kanika
Sunset cruise (2 hours, cocktail included) or cruise + dinner on board package. Departure from Sisowath quay, in central Phnom Penh. Reservation recommended, especially in high season (November to February).
See availability on GetYourGuide →Transparency: we operate the Kanika. We recommend it because we know it better than anyone, not because it brings us profit — most independent reviews confirm the recommendation.
Phnom Penh Heritage Tour
Our second local adventure: an old-fashioned electric bus that takes you to discover the capital beyond the must-see sites. In two hours and fifteen minutes, we traverse the Art Deco streets of the old French quarter, pass by the colonial train station, stop at Wat Phnom (the monastery that gave the city its name), and pass by the Central Art Deco Market, the Royal Palace, and the central post office. The route is punctuated by the stories we tell our friends when we show them around — the tales that you won't hear anywhere else.
This is the ideal format on the morning of your arrival, to get your bearings in the city, understand its geography, and identify places to return to on foot during the day. Covered, electric, silent bus, without aggressive air conditioning. Welcome in French or English.
Book the Phnom Penh Heritage Tour
Tour in an old-fashioned electric bus (2 hours 15 minutes), morning departure from central Phnom Penh. Commentary in French or English. Ideal for setting the stage before exploring solo.
See availability on GetYourGuide →Transparency: we also operate the Phnom Penh Heritage Tour.
Markets: Central, Russian, Kandal
The markets of Phnom Penh are not tourist attractions; they are places of life. Approaching them with this idea changes everything.
- Phsar Thmei (Central Market): the Art Deco icon from 1937, pale yellow dome in the heart of the city. Jewelry, textiles, souvenirs in the dome area; electronics and bric-a-brac in the side galleries; remarkable street food at all four entrances. We go for the architecture as much as for shopping.
- Phsar Toul Tum Pong (Russian Market): the locals' favorite market for treasure hunting. Textiles, silver items, antiques (beware of counterfeits), high-quality Khmer street food. The atmosphere is chaotic, dense, and authentic.
- Phsar Kandal: a fresh produce market, little frequented by tourists. Fish, vegetables, spices, fresh cakes. Best visited early in the morning to understand how Phnom Penh really eats.
Strolling through colonial Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh remains, along with Hanoi, the city where French architectural heritage is best preserved in Southeast Asia. Between 1863 and 1953, French planners laid out the main avenues, built villas and administrative buildings. Many have been recently restored, others are barely holding on and will be demolished if nothing changes. The areas to explore on foot:
- The Central Post Office and Post Office Square: a beautifully restored complex, with Van's Restaurant (former Indochina Bank) for lunch in an intact setting.
- Pasteur Street (Street 51) and Street 240: colonial villas converted into shops, cafes, art galleries.
- Street 178 and riverside: the tourist backbone, lively in the evening, with a few early 20th-century buildings still standing.
- Phnom Penh Railway Station: Art Deco station from the 1930s, at the foot of Wat Phnom.
Where to sleep in Phnom Penh
Two neighborhoods concentrate the essential offerings and interest for travelers:
- Daun Penh / Riverside: the historic center, within walking distance of the Royal Palace, National Museum, markets, and the river. Our recommendation for a first stay. Presence of Raffles Hotel Le Royal (historic palace, restored), boutique hotels, and budget guesthouses.
- BKK1 (Boeung Keng Kang 1): lively residential neighborhood, preferred by expatriates, with many good restaurants, cafes, and reasonably priced boutique hotels. 10 minutes by tuk-tuk from the historic center. Ideal for a second stay or for those seeking more tranquility and greenery.
Budget: guesthouses from €20 per night, boutique hotels with character between €70 and €150, palaces (Raffles Le Royal, Rosewood) over €400. The offering is less abundant than in Siem Reap, but quality is generally assured.
Where to eat
Phnom Penh is a dynamic culinary battleground, with a creative scene that is pushing hard. Here’s a sample of the addresses we recommend without hesitation:
- Quality Khmer cuisine: Malis (a must, royal cuisine), Kravanh, Romdeng (cooking school).
- Creative fusion: Topaz (French elegance based on Cambodian), Le Moon (rooftop restaurant of the FCC), Kravanh.
- Street food and markets: the four entrances of the central market for grilled pork rice (bai sach chrouk) for breakfast, skewers at the Russian market, noodle soup (num banhchok) everywhere.
- Cafes and brunches (BKK1): Eleven One Kitchen, Backyard, Cuisine Wat Damnak Bakery.
Getting around
- Tuk-tuk and PassApp: the PassApp app (or Grab) replaces negotiations for each ride. Trip to the city center: 1 to 3 USD. Tuk-tuk for a day: 20 to 30 USD.
- Air-conditioned taxi: via PassApp or Grab, about 5 to 8 USD for a city ride. Essential for Choeung Ek (25 minutes).
- On foot: the historic center (Daun Penh, riverside, Royal Palace, National Museum, central market) is very walkable. The heat in the hot season can limit enthusiasm after 11 AM.
- Airport: the new Techo International Airport (KTI), which began commercial operations on September 9, 2025, and was officially inaugurated on October 20, 2025, has taken over all international commercial flights. The old Pochentong airport remains used for military aviation, some domestic flights, and private jets. Expect a 45-minute to 1-hour drive to the city center. Fixed taxi fare of 25 USD, or reservation via PassApp / Welcome Pickups.
Questions fréquentes
Two full days, three if you want to take your time. One day for the memorial sites (S-21 + Choeung Ek) and the sunset cruise, one day for the Royal Palace, the National Museum, the markets, and the Heritage Tour.
S-21: 5 USD (8 USD with audio guide), 8 AM–5 PM. Choeung Ek: 6 USD with audio guide included, 8 AM–5:30 PM. Royal Palace + Silver Pagoda: 10 USD, 8 AM–11 AM and 2 PM–5 PM. National Museum: 10 USD, 8 AM–5 PM. Cash only or card depending on the ticket counters.
No. It is one of the safest capitals in Southeast Asia for travelers. The only recurring incident is bag or phone snatching by motorbike riders. Precaution: carry your bag on the sidewalk side, phone in an inner pocket, and avoid poorly lit alleys after 10 PM.
Both work. Use dollars for larger expenses (hotels, restaurants, tourist sites) and riels for smaller ones (tuk-tuks, markets, street food). Rate: 4,000 riels ≈ 1 USD. Merchants often give change in a mix of both.
Take a sunset cruise on the Mekong, then dinner on board or in the historic center. Rooftops (FCC Le Moon, Rosewood Sora) offer spectacular views. The bars in BKK1 and on Pasteur Street provide a more local atmosphere.
For S-21 and Choeung Ek, the audio guide is a great substitute for a human guide. For the Royal Palace, an audio guide or a brochure is sufficient. To understand the city as a whole, the Phnom Penh Heritage Tour is the best format — a French or English-speaking guide in a vintage electric bus.
No. Monsoon rains usually fall in the late afternoon for 30 to 60 minutes, then the sky clears up. You can easily plan your visits in the morning and indoor activities in the early afternoon. The city, lush and refreshed by the showers, is beautiful during the rainy season.
Everything you need to know about Phnom Penh
What to do in Phnom Penh?
S-21, Choeung Ek, Royal Palace, National Museum, Kanika, Heritage Tour, markets, colonial architecture — all the activities in the capital prioritized by budget.
See activities →Hotels & neighborhoods
Daun Penh and riverside for the historic center, BKK1 for residential comfort — the two main areas to stay in Phnom Penh, with price ranges and tips.
Find a hotel →Memory — S21 & Killing Fields
Complete guide to visiting the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21) and the Choeung Ek Memorial Center — prices, hours, practical and emotional tips.
Prepare your visit →Mekong Cruises
The Kanika sunset cruise at the confluence of the Mekong and Tonle Sap — our boat, our tips, and all the options available for cruising the river in Phnom Penh.
Book a cruise →Phnom Penh Heritage Tour
22 heritage sites by electric bus or tuk-tuk,