Some towns you pass through; others hold you. Kampot is firmly in the second category. About 150 km south-west of Phnom Penh, on the Preaek Tuek Chhu river, this provincial town has become one of the favourite stops for travellers who want to slow down — without giving up good food, comfort, or a well-run adventure. World-famous pepper grows a few kilometres away, a former French hill station sits in the national park above the mist, and fireflies light the river on still evenings.
The Old Town and Its Facades
Kampot is fortunate to have an old center still standing. A few blocks of streets around the central roundabout form a neighborhood of Franco-Khmer facades from the 1920s to 1950s: wooden verandas, shutters, arches, canal tiles, colors faded by the sun and humidity of the delta. It’s not Luang Prabang — the buildings are not maintained like in a museum, and that’s precisely what makes them charming. You see them come to life: grocery stores, motorcycle workshops, iced coffee stalls on the ground floor, families upstairs.
The best time to enjoy the old town is in the early morning (before 8 AM) or at sunset. The orange light on the ochre facades, a few street vendors, the river sparkling just steps away — that’s the image of Kampot you take with you. The morning market (Phsar Kampot) is just behind the quay, in and around a 1930s Art Deco building: river fish, vegetables, herbs, fresh rice cakes. You can eat standing up for two or three thousand riels.
The walk along the quay (Sisowath Quay, like in Phnom Penh) stretches for about a kilometer, lined with restaurants and bars overlooking the water. The old concrete bridge, a few hundred meters upstream, offers the most photographed perspective of the town — especially at the time when fishermen cast their nets.
Kampot IGP Pepper
If you know only one thing about Kampot, it’s probably the pepper. And the reputation is well-deserved. Kampot pepper received Protected Geographical Indication status in 2016 — a first for an agricultural product from Cambodia, and one of the few PGIs in Southeast Asia. It is grown in a defined area between the provinces of Kampot and Kep, on soils derived from decomposed basalts, in a particular microclimate created by the proximity of the Gulf of Thailand and the Cardamom Mountains.
There are four main varieties depending on maturity and processing: red pepper, harvested at full maturity, with fruity and slightly sweet notes (the rarest and most expensive); black pepper, picked just before maturity and then fermented and dried, with complex aromas of forest and eucalyptus; white pepper, hulled after fermentation, milder and lemony; and fresh green pepper, sold in clusters and used whole in Cambodian sauces, with a sharp and herbal spiciness. It is this last variety that flavors the green pepper crab from Kep, one of the country’s most famous dishes.
Visiting a plantation is one of the most surprising experiences Kampot has to offer. The Piper nigrum climbs along poles one or two meters high, under shade trees — you don’t expect to see pepper growing like this. The welcoming producers explain the cycle of pruning, harvesting (by hand, cluster by cluster), and processing. You leave with a burning mouth and arms full of pepper.
{{COMPONENT_KAMPOT_CTA_POIVRE}}Bokor Hill Station
Located 35 km west of Kampot, perched at 1,080 meters in Bokor National Park, the former French hill station of Bokor is one of the most unique places in Cambodia. In the 1920s, French colonists built an entire town in the mountain forest to escape the heat of the plains: a large hotel-casino (the Bokor Palace), a Catholic church, a post office, and a summer royal palace. In 1972, the station was abandoned following the Khmer Rouge offensive. It remained a ghost town for thirty years.
Today, some of the original buildings remain, in various states of disrepair, flanked by a rather intrusive contemporary tourist complex built in the 2010s. The atmosphere remains striking: on foggy mornings (common in the low season), the ruined palace hotel disappears into the clouds, vines cover the facades, and the view of the Gulf of Thailand, when the sky clears, is spectacular.
The mountain road, well-paved for a few years now, crosses the national park through a dense forest of several hundred plant species. You can regularly see monkeys, birds, and, if you’re very lucky, a wild buffalo at the edge. By motorcycle or car, the trip from Kampot takes about 45 minutes.
- National park entrance: 5 USD/person.
- Access: rented motorcycle in Kampot (10–15 USD/day), automatic scooter (8–12 USD/day), taxi or tuk-tuk for the day (25–35 USD with driver and waiting). The road is paved but has significant slopes — not recommended for beginner motorcyclists.
- Best time: dry season (November to April). In summer, Bokor is often in the clouds for several days in a row.
The Caves: Phnom Chhnork and Phnom Sorsia
The surroundings of Kampot are dotted with karst hills housing caves adorned with temples, some active for several centuries. The two most accessible and beautiful ones are about fifteen kilometers east of the city.
Phnom Chhnork
The most impressive of the two. You access the main cave through a natural limestone corridor, then emerge into a hall several dozen meters high, at the back of which is a 7th-century Khmer temple dedicated to Shiva — one of the oldest Buddhist-Hindu structures still intact in the region. Light enters through a natural well in the cave ceiling and illuminates the sanctuary in a rather spectacular way, particularly between 10 AM and noon. Local guides (children and adults from the nearby village) offer their services for a few dollars — they are helpful for the secondary alcoves.
Access: about 15 km east of Kampot, via the road to Kep. Tuk-tuk from the city (10–15 USD round trip with waiting), motorcycle or bicycle for the independent. Entrance: a few dollars (variable, pay in cash to the guardian). A climb of about 200 steps to access the cave — easy but wear closed shoes.
Phnom Sorsia
Two kilometers from Phnom Chhnork, another karst massif houses several caves, including the Bats Cave, inhabited by a colony of thousands of bats that take flight in a cloud at dusk. The effect is striking. Inside, more recent Buddhist sanctuaries (20th century) share the space with stalactites. The atmosphere is wilder and less touristy than at Phnom Chhnork.
Tip: combine both caves in the same half-day, leaving early in the morning to enjoy the light at Phnom Chhnork before noon, and follow up with Phnom Sorsia in the afternoon. Bring a flashlight.
The River: Kayaking, Boats, and Fireflies
The Preaek Tuek Chhu — literally "river of clear waters" — is the soul of Kampot. It connects to the Gulf of Thailand about thirty kilometers to the south, passing through landscapes of rice fields, mangroves, and palm groves. Navigating it is one of the best ways to understand why this region has such a reputation.
Kayaking
Kayak rentals are very common in Kampot, with several operators on the quay (between 5 and 10 USD for half a day for a single kayak, 8–15 USD for a tandem). You can paddle upstream to explore the creeks and mangroves, or head downstream towards the gulf. Skill level required: beginner for the river in the dry season (low current, calm waters). In the rainy season, the current can be stronger — check before you go.
Firefly Tour
This is one of the most memorable experiences of a trip to Cambodia. Every evening at dusk, thousands of fireflies light up in the mangroves along the river, creating a breathtaking natural light show. Motorboats depart from the Kampot quay in the early evening to head up the river to the concentration areas. The engine is turned off, and the boat drifts in silence as the trees begin to twinkle.
The phenomenon is related to the mangroves: male fireflies gather there and synchronize their flashes to attract females — a rare collective synchronization behavior at this scale. The spectacle is visible year-round, but it is particularly intense in the dry season, on moonless nights.
{{COMPONENT_KAMPOT_CTA_LUCIOLES}}Kep: The Must-Do Excursion
Located 30 kilometers east of Kampot, Kep is a very small seaside town with a particular history: a fashionable resort founded by the French in the early 20th century, abandoned and looted during the Khmer Rouge, it still resembles a resort frozen in time today. Dozens of villas with modernist architecture from the 1960s to 1970s (built by the Cambodian elite under Sihanouk) remain in ruins amidst the vegetation, half-overgrown by banyan trees. It’s strange, beautiful, and a bit melancholic.
But what attracts visitors to Kep is primarily its crab market. The Crab Market (Phsar Kdam) is a row of stilted restaurants facing the sea, where fishermen bring in crabs from the gulf each morning, and cooks prepare them in front of you, often stir-fried with fresh Kampot green pepper — the most famous pairing in Cambodian cuisine. Prices are transparent (crabs are priced by weight, around 5–8 USD per kilo), and the atmosphere is cheerful and relaxed.
In Kep, you can also access Rabbit Island (Koh Tonsay), twenty minutes by boat: a small island covered in forest with two or three white sand beaches, a few rustic bungalows, and clear water in the dry season. Ideal for a day of relaxation, or even an overnight stay.
- Access from Kampot: tuk-tuk (10–15 USD round trip), motorcycle (15 min), taxi.
- Crab Market: open all day, best at noon when the arrivals are fresh.
- Koh Tonsay: boats from the Crab Market, 5–8 USD round trip, variable departures depending on the tide.
Where to Sleep in Kampot
The accommodation options in Kampot are extensive for a town of this size, thanks to a decade of tourism growth. You can find guesthouses starting at 15 USD a night up to boutique hotels at 150 USD, along with excellent mid-range establishments with pools and river views.
- Downtown and Quay Side: the most convenient for restaurants and neighborhood life. Character hotels in old colonial houses, with or without pools. Some must-visit places like Anik Palace and several recent boutique hotels along the quay.
- By the River, Outside the Center: quieter establishments, often with infinity pools overlooking the river, 5–10 minutes by tuk-tuk from the center. Ideal for travelers seeking tranquility. Ecran Boutique and several intimate resorts are located in this area.
- Budget: guesthouses starting from 12–15 USD/night for a double room with fan, 25–40 USD with air conditioning. Boutique hotels with pools: 50–120 USD depending on the season.
Where to Eat
The culinary scene in Kampot is disproportionate to the size of the town — which is not surprising for a destination that attracts so many expatriates and long-term travelers. Here are some must-visit places:
- Authentic Khmer Cuisine: street restaurants at the morning market (bai sach chrouk, lok lak, num banhchok soup) for less than 3 USD. In the evening, a few places around the old town serve very honest home-style cooking.
- Green Pepper Cuisine: several restaurants along the quay offer dishes centered around Kampot pepper — including local versions of crab with pepper, skewers, and marinades. It’s a chance to compare black, red, and green on the same table.
- International Cuisine: the concentration of foreign cuisines is remarkable — Indian, Mexican, Mediterranean, Japanese — with generally solid quality. The competition among establishments has raised the standard.
- Cafés: Kampot has a serious café scene, driven by Cambodian coffee (local robusta, served iced with sweetened condensed milk) and a few artisanal roasters. Olives and Rikitikitavi are classics on the quay.
How to Get There and Get Around
From Phnom Penh
- Shared Taxi: departure from the central market or the southern bus station in Phnom Penh, in the morning. 10–12 USD/seat, about 2.5 hours. An economical option, a bit sporty.
- Minibus or Express Bus: Mekong Express, Champa Mekong, Giant Ibis — 7 to 12 USD depending on the operator. Departures mid-morning, arrival in early afternoon. Comfort varies.
- Private Taxi: via PassApp or Welcome Pickups, 35–45 USD for the full trip. Air-conditioned, on time, with luggage. Our recommendation if you are traveling in a group.
From Sihanoukville
About 105 km, 1.5 to 2 hours. Minibus or shared taxi from the center of Sihanoukville (7–10 USD).
Getting Around in Kampot and Surroundings
- By Bicycle: Kampot is one of the most pleasant towns in Cambodia to cycle around. The downtown area is flat, and the roads to the caves and plantations are lightly trafficked. Rental: 2–4 USD/day in town.
- By Motorcycle/Scooter: essential for Bokor. 8–15 USD/day for rental, no license required but caution is advised.
- By Tuk-Tuk: for longer excursions or for those who do not drive. Kampot drivers are generally reliable and know all the addresses. 10–30 USD for half a day depending on the destination.
Questions fréquentes
Two days is the minimum reasonable time. The first day for Bokor Hill Station or the caves, the old town, and sunset at the quay. The second day for a pepper plantation, Kep and its crab market, and the firefly tour in the evening. Three or four days allow you to do everything without rushing — and to add a night on Koh Tonsay.
Yes, as long as you are willing to rely on tuk-tuks for excursions. The old town, the quay, and restaurants are easily accessible by foot or by bike. For Bokor, the caves, and the plantations, a tuk-tuk for the day is the simplest solution if you don't want to drive.
Directly from the plantations (this is the best way to ensure authenticity and IGP), or in specialized shops in the city center that display the IGP label. Avoid street vendors with uncertain origins. Recognized brands: La Plantation, Sothy's, Farmlink Kampot Pepper.
Fireflies are present all year round, but their intensity varies. The best conditions: dry season (November–April), moonless night, no wind. During the rainy season and on rainy nights, the spectacle can be disappointing. Serious operators will inform you if conditions are poor.
Very well suited. The slow pace, varied activities (biking, kayaking, caves, boat rides), accessible cuisine, and accommodations with pools make it an ideal destination for families. The caves and the firefly tour are particularly enjoyed by children.
No, Kampot does not have its own beach — the city is located on a river, about thirty kilometers from the sea. For the beach, you need to go to Kep (black sand beach) or take a boat to Koh Tonsay (Rabbit Island), which is 20 minutes from the crab market in Kep.