S-21 & the Killing Fields — visiting the Khmer Rouge memory

Between 1975 and 1979, the Khmer Rouge regime caused the deaths of approximately 2 million Cambodians — nearly a quarter of the country's population. Phnom Penh is home to two essential memorial sites to understand this period: the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21) and the Choeung Ek Killing Fields. These sites are not just tourist attractions: they are living testimonies of a human tragedy whose scars are still present in every Cambodian family.

Tuol Sleng — the Genocide Museum (S-21)

S-21 was originally a high school in Phnom Penh. The Khmer Rouge transformed it into a secret prison in 1975. In four years, between 17,000 and 20,000 people were detained there, tortured, and then executed. Only a dozen prisoners emerged alive. Today, the buildings have been preserved almost exactly as they were found by Vietnamese soldiers in January 1979, and it was turned into a museum in 1980 after the country was liberated by Vietnamese troops.

What you will see

Building A — the torture cells. The rooms on the ground floor have been left as they were found by Vietnamese soldiers in January 1979. The metal beds to which prisoners were shackled, the torture instruments, the last photographs taken by the Khmer Rouge themselves.

Building B — the photos of the victims. The Khmer Rouge systematically photographed all their prisoners upon arrival. These thousands of portraits constitute one of the most poignant testimonies of the museum. Men, women, children — all looking at the camera with expressions ranging from terror to resignation.

Building C — the individual cells. The former dormitory has been partitioned into tiny brick cells. Each prisoner was chained to the floor in darkness. The reconstruction is striking.

Building D — the permanent exhibition. Maps, documents, testimonies from survivors. An exhibition tracing the historical context, the rise of the Khmer Rouge, and the course of the genocide.

Choeung Ek — the Killing Fields

Located 15 km southwest of downtown Phnom Penh, Choeung Ek was an orchard before becoming the main execution site for S-21 prisoners. Detainees were taken there at night, executed — often with bladed weapons to conserve ammunition — and buried in mass graves. After the liberation in 1979, authorities exhumed 8,985 bodies. The remains of thousands more still rest in the ground.

The memorial and the visiting path

The visit follows a circular route around the site, guided by an excellent audio guide that combines survivor testimonies, ambient sounds, and historical explanations. The key highlights of the route include:

• The memorial stupa — a 17-story Buddhist tower containing the skulls and bones of several thousand victims, sorted by gender and age. The most visible symbol of the site.
• The mass graves — depressions in the ground, some still unexcavated. Bones and fragments of clothing continue to surface after each rainy season.
• The "magic tree" — a palm tree whose leaves the Khmer Rouge used to slice the throats of prisoners. A loudspeaker was hung there to cover the screams with revolutionary music.
• The tree of babies — one of the hardest moments of the visit. A sign explains what happened here. Prepare yourself.
• The lake and peaceful garden — paradoxically, the site is surrounded by lush nature, frequented by Cambodian families on weekends. A troubling dissonance.

How to organize your day

The combination of S-21 + Choeung Ek represents a full and emotionally intense day. Here’s the program we recommend:

Visiting with a guide: our recommendation

These two sites can be visited independently, but a guide or organized tour adds real value. A Cambodian guide can provide a human and personal dimension to these visits — many have relatives who lived through this period. Explanations in French are also much richer than with the audio guide alone.

Practical tips before you go

What you need to know

• Dress code: shoulders and knees must be covered at both sites.
• Children: not recommended for those under 10-12 years old. For older children, prepare them for what they will see.
• Cameras: allowed at both sites, but with discretion and respect.
• Water: bring water, especially for Choeung Ek where there are no shops inside.
• Emotional state: if you are going through a difficult time, consider postponing your visit. These sites affect everyone differently.

How to get there

Tuol Sleng (S-21) is located in the city center, in the BKK2 district, accessible on foot from BKK1, by tuk-tuk (3-4 USD from Riverside) or via PassApp / Grab.

Choeung Ek is 15 km from the center. Expect 7-10 USD for a round-trip tuk-tuk with waiting time (negotiate before leaving). Or book a tour that includes transportation.

On nous pose souvent ces questions

Questions fréquentes

How much does it cost to enter Tuol Sleng (S-21)?

Entry to S-21 costs 5 USD without an audio guide, or 8 USD with the audio guide (highly recommended). The museum is open daily from 8 AM to 5 PM.

Should I visit S-21 before or after Choeung Ek?

It is advisable to start with S-21 in the morning to understand the historical context, then head to Choeung Ek in the afternoon. The two sites can be combined into a full day of about 5-6 hours of visiting.

Is Choeung Ek suitable for children?

These sites are not recommended for children under 10-12 years old due to the traumatic nature of the content (bones, photos). For teenagers, prior preparation is recommended. Judge according to your child's maturity.

How to get to Choeung Ek from Phnom Penh?

Choeung Ek is located 15 km southwest of downtown. Expect to pay 7-10 USD for a round-trip tuk-tuk with waiting time (negotiate with your driver), or book an organized tour that includes transport and a guide.