Arrival in Siem Reap — Sunrise & Angkor Wat
Ideally arrive the night before. Buy your Angkor pass (62 USD) on the evening of your arrival — the ticket counters open at 5 PM on the road to the temples.
North basin, reflection of the five towers in the darkness before dawn. Arrive at 5:15 AM for a good spot. After sunrise, take a complete tour of the bas-relief galleries (800 m) and climb to the central tower.
The 216 faces of Bayon, the temple-mountain of Baphuon (70 m reclining Buddha on the west face), the Terrace of the Elephants (350 m) and the Terrace of the Leper King. Allow 2 hours for the whole visit.
Return to Siem Reap. The heat from 12 PM to 3 PM is relentless — it's the perfect time to rest at the hotel.
Ta Prohm and its giant fig trees in the late afternoon, when the light is soft and the crowds have left. Banteay Kdei and Srah Srang are just across.
Grand Circuit — Preah Khan, Ta Som, Pre Rup
Immense monastery-temple of Jayavarman VII (1191), 56 ha, less crowded than Angkor Wat. Enfilade corridors, reused liṅgas, unique round column hall at Angkor.
The sacred islet of Jayatataka lake, its four cardinal basins. Then Ta Som, with its east gate embraced by a spectacular strangler fig.
Stalls on the road or return to town depending on your energy.
East Mebon (953) and its laterite elephants. Pre Rup (961) and its sunset over the Khmer plain from the top of the pyramid — less crowded than Phnom Bakheng.
Banteay Srei & Tonlé Sap
The pink sandstone jewel. Depart early for morning light. Exceptional narrative pediments, devatas with expressive faces, Malraux anecdote (attempted theft in 1923). Allow 1.5 hours.
The Angkor National Museum (12 USD) perfectly complements 3 days of temples: chronology of kings, major sculptures, model of the Angkor complex at its peak.
Kampong Phluk, 16 km south of Siem Reap: stilt village above the mangrove forest (dry season) or water (rainy season). Paddleboat between the houses, school, and pagoda. A Khmer Venice.
Restaurant Marum (training school), Haven or Cuisine Wat Damnak for a quality meal before departure. Book in advance during high season.
Sunrise, grand circuit, Banteay Srei + Tonlé Sap. Certified French-speaking guides. Flexible cancellation.
Transit Siem Reap → Phnom Penh & Arrival
Departure from Siem Reap bus station. 5:30–6 hours travel, air-conditioned, WiFi. Arrival around 1:30 PM in Phnom Penh. Book on giantibis.com (12–15 USD).
Grab from the bus station to the hotel (5–8 USD). BKK1 and Riverside are the two best-located neighborhoods depending on your travel style.
Walk along the banks of the Mekong. If you arrive before 5 PM, you can enter the Royal Palace (10 USD). Otherwise, admire the facade from the esplanade and watch the confluence of Chaktomuk (Mekong + Tonlé Sap + Bassac) at sunset.
Royal Palace, National Museum & Khmer Rouge memory
The royal residence and its gardens. The Silver Pagoda with its floor of 5,000 solid silver tiles, the emerald Buddha from the 17th century, and the solid gold Buddha set with 9,584 diamonds. 1.5–2 hours, shoulders and knees covered.
The most beautiful Khmer art museum in the world, just steps from the Royal Palace. Monumental statues, bronzes, EFEO collections. At least 1 hour.
The Central Market (Psar Thmei, 1937) is an Art Deco colonial marvel and a gastronomic landmark with dozens of noodle and curry stalls around.
The former Tuol Svay Prey school converted into an extermination center by the Khmer Rouge (1975–1979). About 17,000 people were detained there before being executed at Choeung Ek. French audio guide highly recommended (testimonies from survivors). Allow 1.5–2 hours.
After S-21, take the time to stroll along the banks, sit in a café with a view of the river. Visiting S-21 requires some digestion time — don't follow it up with a lively dinner.
Choeung Ek & Daily Life in Phnom Penh
15 km south of the center (15–20 min by Grab). The mass execution site of the Khmer Rouge: mass graves, memorial stupa filled with skulls, "magic" tree used as a loudspeaker to cover screams. The audio guide (included in the 6 USD entry) is one of the best in the world — testimonies from survivors and former Khmer Rouge. Duration: 1.5 hours.
The BKK1 district (Boeung Keng Kang 1) is the trendy heart of Phnom Penh: specialty cafés, galleries, contemporary Cambodian restaurants, design shops. Ideal for a morning of relaxation after Choeung Ek.
The Bophana Center (founded by filmmaker Rithy Panh) preserves Cambodian audiovisual archives and offers screenings of documentaries on Khmer history. Free entry, open in the afternoon.
The largest market in Phnom Penh: antiques, silks, clothing, spices, curiosities. Bargaining is a must. Ideal for quality souvenirs (Khmer silks, pottery, lacquer paintings).
A dinner cruise on the Mekong and Tonlé Sap at dusk is a lovely way to end your stay. The city viewed from the water is spectacular — Royal Palace and pagodas illuminated, fishing boats. 20–45 USD/person depending on the operator.
S-21 + Choeung Ek in a guided tour, dinner cruise on the Mekong, cycling in Phnom Penh. Flexible cancellation.
Last Morning & Departure
Last stroll in the Art Deco market, last Cambodian coffee, last purchases. The Cambodian baguette (num pang) filled with pâté, pickled vegetables, and fresh herbs is the ultimate street food breakfast.
The Museum of Currency and Economy of Cambodia, by the Mekong, traces 2,000 years of Khmer economic history. Modern, interactive, often empty — a good option if your flight is in the afternoon.
Phnom Penh Airport (PNH) is 10 km from the center, 20–30 min by Grab (5–8 USD). Allow 2 hours before your flight for formalities.