21 days in Cambodia
Three weeks to see a Cambodia that most tourists do not know: the millennial temples of Angkor, the colonial streets of Battambang, the memory of Phnom Penh, the beaches of Koh Rong — and the deep Cambodia of Mondulkiri, with its forests, elephants, and Bunong tribes.
Day by day
Siem Reap · Battambang · Phnom Penh · Kampot · Koh Rong
The first 14 days of this itinerary are identical to the 15-day grand tour: Angkor (4 days), Battambang (2 days), Phnom Penh (3 days), Kampot/Kep (2 days) and Koh Rong Sanloem (2 days). Check this page for the complete day-by-day program.
Complete program with schedules, transport, and recommendations for the first 14 days of this trip.
Mondulkiri — Forest, elephants & Bunong tribes
Mondulkiri is the largest and least populated province in Cambodia. Wooded plateaus at 900 m altitude, primary forests, waterfalls, and villages of the Bunong tribes (one of the most significant ethnic minorities in the country). And elephants — not in a tourist camp, but in semi-freedom in their forest.
Bus from Phnom Penh: 7–8h, 10–15 USD. The road crosses rice plains that gradually give way to wooded hills. Sen Monorom, the capital of Mondulkiri, is a small plateau town at 900 m altitude — cool at night, even in the dry season. Arrival in the late afternoon, check-in and dinner.
Two conservation projects allow you to spend a day with elephants in semi-freedom in their natural environment — no riding, no shows. You observe them bathing, eating, and interacting. It is one of the few ethical elephant experiences in Southeast Asia. Reservation required several days in advance. ~75 USD/person/day.
Visit a Bunong village with a local guide: stilt houses, sticky rice cultivation, rattan crafts. Bou Sra Waterfall (43 m, the highest in Cambodia) is 40 km from Sen Monorom — red laterite track, spectacular in the rainy season. Motorcycle rental possible (10–15 USD/day).
The hiking trails around Sen Monorom cross primary forests that you will not see anywhere else in Cambodia. Dang Phlet Waterfall (1h trail, relatively easy), swimming spots in forest streams. In the evening, dinner at one of the few restaurants in the center offering plateau Khmer cuisine.
Elephant Valley Project, forest treks, visits to Bunong villages. Reservation recommended several weeks in advance.
Ratanakiri — Volcanic lake & return
Ratanakiri is the most isolated province in Cambodia — on the border of Laos and Vietnam. Its main attraction is the volcanic lake Yeak Laom, a perfectly circular crater lake with turquoise waters, surrounded by a primary forest inhabited by several minority tribes.
The road between Mondulkiri and Ratanakiri is not the easiest: expect 5–7h by motorcycle or 4x4. Local agencies in Sen Monorom organize this transfer (30–60 USD in shared vehicle). Banlung, the capital of Ratanakiri, is a small red town (omnipresent laterite) at 740 m altitude.
The volcanic lake Yeak Laom is 5 km from Banlung: water at 26°C all year round, swimming, canoeing, 3 km trail around the lake in the forest. Managed by the Tampuen community. In the afternoon: visit a Kreung or Jarai village (plateau minorities with their bachelor houses and original marriage customs).
Flight option: Cambodia Bayon Airlines or Cambodian Angkor Air connects Banlung to Phnom Penh (1h, 60–120 USD depending on availability). Bus option: 8–9h, 12–15 USD. The flight is highly recommended if your international flight is that evening. Phnom Penh airport is 10 km from the center.
Northeastern Cambodia in practice
Poor roads
The tracks in Mondulkiri and Ratanakiri are red laterite — dusty in the dry season, muddy in the rainy season. A motorcycle or 4x4 is necessary to leave the main towns. Inform your travel insurance.
Limited connectivity
4G exists in Sen Monorom and Banlung but is more erratic in remote forests and villages. Download your offline maps (Maps.me or Google Maps offline) before you go.
Malaria
Mondulkiri and Ratanakiri are in a malaria risk zone (low but real). Consult a travel doctor before departure for appropriate prophylaxis. DEET repellent, mosquito net in the evening.
Cooler climate
At 700–900 m altitude, Mondulkiri and Ratanakiri are significantly cooler than the rest of Cambodia — especially at night (15–20°C in December-January). Bring an extra layer.
Less time available?
15 days — Grand tour
Same itinerary without the northeast: Angkor, Battambang, Phnom Penh, Kampot, and Koh Rong. The complete classic Cambodia tour.
See the itinerary →10 days — The classic
Angkor + Phnom Penh + Kampot + Koh Rong. The most popular itinerary in Cambodia.
See the itinerary →7 days — The essentials
Angkor + Phnom Penh. The two must-sees perfectly covered in one week.
See the itinerary →Are you preparing your trip?
Visa, insurance, eSIM, vaccines, budget — everything you need to prepare before you go.