Koh Rong or Koh Rong Sanloem — how to choose
This is the question everyone asks before taking the ferry. The answer depends on what you are looking for, and the two islands are complementary rather than competitive.
Choose Koh Rong if you want life, large beaches, parties, a variety of accommodations and restaurants, and the possibility to explore an island large enough to occupy several days. The village of Koh Touch, on the southwest tip, is lively day and night. Long Beach, to the northwest, is one of the most beautiful and longest beaches in Cambodia. The island is large enough (78 km²) to get lost in.
Choose Koh Rong Sanloem if you are looking for tranquility, nature, small numbers, sunset without music, and particularly clear water. The island is smaller (9 km²), less developed, and the beaches of Saracen Bay and Lazy Beach have a soft and soothing atmosphere that still resembles what Koh Samui was like in the 1980s.
If you have five days or more, combine the two — a ferry connects the two islands in 15 minutes. Start with Koh Rong Sanloem (arrival in calm) and finish with Koh Rong (more energy before heading back to Sihanoukville).
Koh Rong — the lively island
Koh Rong is the second largest island in Cambodia after Koh Kong. Its terrain is hilly, covered with dense jungle that occupies the interior of the island — barely crossed by a few paths. The beaches are concentrated on the west and northwest coast, sheltered from the wind and with calm waters most of the year.
Koh Touch — the main village
On the southwest tip of the island, Koh Touch is the tourist heart of Koh Rong. This is where the ferries arrive, where guesthouses, beach bars, seafood restaurants, and activity agencies are concentrated. The atmosphere is young, international, and festive — especially in the evening when the beach bars come alive until dawn. If you are looking for calm, this is the place to avoid or quickly pass through to reach the other beaches.
Long Beach (4K Beach)
A 45-minute walk north of Koh Touch (or 10 minutes by boat taxi), Long Beach — also called 4K Beach — is the most spectacular beach on the island. Four kilometers of pristine white sand, bordered by dense jungle, with no road and almost no development. The water is a transparent blue, and the bottom is fine sand extending up to a hundred meters from the shore. It is one of the most beautiful beaches in Southeast Asia, and it remains relatively untouched because it is not directly accessible by boat from Sihanoukville.
A few small bungalows and one or two restaurants have opened on Long Beach, but the attendance remains moderate. You need to bring your supplies — no shops in the middle of the beach. The path from Koh Touch crosses the jungle and takes about 45 minutes; closed shoes are recommended.
Sok San Beach
On the northwest coast, Sok San Beach is a long, less frequented beach, with a few discreet resorts and an atmosphere of the end of the world. Accessible by boat taxi from Koh Touch or via a track through the island by motorcycle. Ideal for travelers who want to stay on Koh Rong but escape the hustle and bustle of Koh Touch.
The interior jungle
The interior of Koh Rong is a practically untouched tropical rainforest, inhabited by monkeys, snakes, birds, and a few endemic species. There are paths, but not all are marked — it is better to be accompanied or well-equipped (GPS, water, machete for some passages). A path connects Koh Touch to Long Beach through the forest. Local operators offer guided jungle hikes, sometimes with a night in a hammock.
{{COMPONENT_KOHRONG_CTA_KOH_RONG_TOURS}}Koh Rong Sanloem — the secret island
Just 15 minutes by boat south of Koh Rong, Koh Rong Sanloem is smaller, quieter, and according to many travelers, the more beautiful of the two. Its tourist development is deliberately limited — no grid electricity in some parts of the island (generators and solar panels take over), no through road, no cars. You get around on foot, by kayak, or by boat taxi.
Saracen Bay
The main bay of the island, on the east side, opens to calm and protected water. Saracen Bay is lined with a fine sandy beach of about two kilometers, with an increasing concentration of accommodations — from simple bungalows to charming boutique resorts. This is where most ferries arrive. The atmosphere is calm during the day, tranquil in the evening. A good base for exploring the island.
Lazy Beach
On the west coast, accessible on foot from Saracen Bay (30–40 minutes of path through the forest) or by boat taxi, Lazy Beach is a small cove of white sand framed by wooded hills. A few bungalows, a bar-restaurant, lush vegetation right to the water's edge. The sunset from Lazy Beach, with the golden sea and silhouettes of islands on the horizon, is one of the most beautiful along the Cambodian coast.
M'Pay Bay
In the northwest of the island, M'Pay Bay is the least touristy beach of Koh Rong Sanloem — accessible only by boat or via a demanding forest path. A few rustic bungalows, particularly clear water, and a Robinson Crusoe atmosphere that the other beaches have lost. For travelers truly seeking isolation.
The interior of the island
Koh Rong Sanloem has a small interior lake surrounded by mangroves, accessible from Saracen Bay by a 20-minute path. Hundreds of bird species nest in the mangrove trees — it is a remarkable sight in the early morning, in complete silence. Saltwater crocodiles are present in some mangrove areas — a local guide is essential for these excursions.
{{COMPONENT_KOHRONG_CTA_KOH_SR_TOURS}}Bioluminescent plankton
This is one of the strangest and most beautiful experiences that the Cambodian islands can offer. On certain nights, the seawater lights up with an electric blue at every movement — a hand dipping into the water leaves a glowing trail, the waves leave a shiny border on the sand. This phenomenon is caused by marine microorganisms called dinoflagellates (Noctiluca scintillans), which produce defensive bioluminescence when agitated.
Koh Rong — and to a lesser extent Koh Rong Sanloem — is one of the most famous places in the world to observe this phenomenon. It is particularly concentrated in shallow bays with calm waters, such as the main bay of Koh Touch or certain areas of Saracen Bay. It is best seen:
- On a moonless night or early in the evening before the moon rises — this is the most important criterion.
- Between March and October, when the sea is warmer and the concentration of dinoflagellates is higher.
- Far from artificial lights — the beach bars and lighting of Koh Touch disturb visibility. Go 200 meters from the village.
- By entering the water — the phenomenon is infinitely more spectacular when swimming than when watching from the beach.
Most operators in Koh Rong offer night plankton tours by kayak or boat (10–20 USD/person), which take participants to optimal areas away from light pollution. A good option if you are unfamiliar with the spots.
{{COMPONENT_KOHRONG_CTA_PLANKTON}}Diving and snorkeling
The Gulf of Thailand around Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem is home to well-preserved coral reefs, with a diverse marine fauna: parrotfish, lionfish, manta rays (in season), sea turtles, nudibranchs, and schools of barracudas. Visibility is generally good from November to May (10–25 meters depending on the sites) and reduced during the monsoon.
Snorkeling
Accessible to all, no personal equipment needed if rented on-site (5–10 USD for a complete set). The best snorkeling spots are accessible by boat from both islands:
- Snake Island (Koh Rong) — a small islet off Koh Rong, with a shallow and colorful reef.
- Saracen Bay (Koh Rong Sanloem) — the bottom of the bay is home to corals and schools of fish, accessible directly from the beach.
- Lazy Beach (Koh Rong Sanloem) — reef to the north of the beach, accessible by swimming.
Scuba diving
Several diving centers operate from Koh Rong and Sihanoukville, with regular trips to nearby sites. The most well-known: Neptune Diving and Dive Shop Koh Rong. Rates for a guided dive start around 35–45 USD, PADI Open Water courses around 350–400 USD over 3–4 days. The optimal diving season runs from November to April.
{{COMPONENT_KOHRONG_CTA_SNORKEL}}Where to sleep
The accommodation options on both islands have evolved significantly: you can now find accommodation of all ranges, from bamboo bungalows to luxury eco-resorts. Here’s how to navigate according to your budget and expectations.
On Koh Rong
- Koh Touch (lively): guesthouses and small hotels facing the beach, starting from 20–35 USD/night. Basic comfort but excellent access to restaurants and bars. Ideal for travelers who want to enjoy the nightlife.
- Long Beach (isolated): a few rustic bungalows in an exceptional setting, 25–60 USD/night. No air conditioning in some, generator only in the evening. The price of isolation.
- Sok San (calm): mid-range to upscale resorts, 60–180 USD/night. The ideal option for those who want the quality of a resort while staying on Koh Rong.
On Koh Rong Sanloem
- Saracen Bay: the widest choice on the island — simple bungalows (20–40 USD) to boutique resorts (100–200 USD). Direct beach access, varied restaurants.
- Lazy Beach: a few bungalows in an idyllic setting, 40–80 USD/night. The most romantic beach on the island.
- M'Pay Bay: rustic accommodation, without electricity some evenings, starting from 20–30 USD. For travelers truly seeking isolation.
Where to eat
The cuisine on the islands revolves around freshly caught seafood — fish, lobsters, squid, crabs — grilled or sautéed with garlic, served with rice and vegetables. Prices are a bit higher than in Sihanoukville (logical, everything arrives by boat), but reasonable. Meal budget: 5–15 USD per main dish.
- Koh Touch (Koh Rong): the largest selection — beach restaurants, pizzerias, coffee shops, cocktail bars. Competition drives prices down. A few memorable places for grilled seafood by the sea.
- Saracen Bay (Koh Rong Sanloem): the restaurants of guesthouses and resorts dominate. Honest cuisine, pleasant setting, a few places with authentic Khmer recipes prepared with the catch of the day.
- Lazy Beach and M'Pay Bay: one restaurant each, often managed by the accommodation. Short menu, fresh products. You don’t come for gastronomy, but you eat well.
How to get there
From Sihanoukville
This is the starting point for both islands. Ferries depart from the Ochheuteal Pier, a few minutes from the center of Sihanoukville.
- Speed boat to Koh Rong: 45–50 minutes, 8–12 USD. Main companies: Speed Ferry Cambodia, Buva Sea, Island Speed Ferry Cambodia. Several departures per day in high season (usually 8 AM, 10 AM, 2 PM, 4 PM — check at the ticket office).
- Speed boat to Koh Rong Sanloem: 30–35 minutes, 7–10 USD. Same companies, slightly different schedules.
- Slow ferry: 1.5 to 2 hours, cheaper (5–8 USD), but less comfortable. Suitable if the luggage is heavy.
Book your ferry tickets in advance during high season (December–February) — boats often sell out on the same day. Several online agencies and ticket offices in Sihanoukville offer reservations.
Between the two islands
A ferry connects Koh Rong to Koh Rong Sanloem (Saracen Bay) in about 15 minutes. Schedules vary by season — inquire on-site. Price: 5–8 USD. Private boat taxis can also be negotiated (15–25 USD per trip).
From Phnom Penh
No direct access. Phnom Penh → Sihanoukville by bus or taxi (3 to 4 hours, 7–40 USD depending on the mode of transport), then ferry from Sihanoukville to the chosen island. Allow a full day of travel from Phnom Penh.
{{COMPONENT_KOHRONG_CTA_FERRY}}Practical tips
- Cash: come with enough dollars from Sihanoukville. The ATMs in Koh Touch are sometimes down, and Koh Rong Sanloem has none. Most establishments accept cards but with fees (3–5%).
- Mosquitoes: particularly active at dawn and dusk in jungle areas. Strong repellent (minimum 30% DEET) is essential for evenings and forest hikes.
- Jellyfish: present unpredictably, especially at the beginning of the rainy season (May–July). Ask locals before swimming in open areas.
- Sunscreen: use reef-safe formulas without oxybenzone to protect the corals. Regular sunscreens are banned in several swimming areas — and it's a good reason to be careful.
- Electricity: some accommodations only have power from 6 PM to 6 AM (generator). Charge your devices during the day in cafes and restaurants that have solar panels.
- Waste: the islands are facing increasing pressure on their waste. Refuse single-use plastics, bring your water bottle and bag. Several local initiatives organize beach cleanups — you can participate.
Questions fréquentes
Koh Rong for partying, large beaches, and a variety of activities. Koh Rong Sanloem for tranquility, preserved nature, and small coves. If you have time, combine both — they are 15 minutes apart.
Yes, but the intensity varies. The most important condition: moonless night. The best times are from March to October when the water is warmer. Entering the water rather than staying on the beach spectacularly multiplies the effect.
Ferries continue during the rainy season but can be canceled due to bad weather (rough seas, strong winds). Accommodations remain open, prices drop significantly, and the beaches are much less crowded. Snorkeling and diving are not recommended (reduced visibility). The plankton, however, is often more intense.
Yes, comfortably. 3 nights on Koh Rong Sanloem + 3 nights on Koh Rong make for an ideal week. The ferry between the two takes 15 minutes. Start with Sanloem if you are coming from Phnom Penh (Sihanoukville → Sanloem → Koh Rong → Sihanoukville).
Very limited. Koh Touch (Koh Rong) has a small basic clinic. For any serious issues, you need to return to Sihanoukville, which has equipped hospitals. Travel insurance covering medical repatriation is essential — purchase it before you leave.
It's a matter of philosophy. The Cambodian islands are less developed, cheaper, less crowded, and often have beaches as beautiful as Koh Phangan or Koh Lanta. The infrastructure is more fragile, and the comfort level is a notch below large Thai resorts. But for value–authenticity–price ratio, Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem win hands down.