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The crab market (Phsar Kdam)

If Kep had only one argument, it would be this one. The crab market — Phsar Kdam in Khmer — is a row of stilt restaurants stretching along the shore, facing the Gulf of Thailand. Every morning, fishermen unload their tanks of freshly caught Portunus pelagicus crabs. Cooks set up at dawn with their woks and clusters of fresh green pepper. By noon, the tables are packed.

The most famous preparation is also the simplest: crab with fresh Kampot green pepper. The crab, often whole, is stir-fried over high heat with clusters of green pepper still on the stem, garlic, lime, and a few sauces. The result is of absolute frankness: the briny sweetness of the crab, the bright and herbaceous spiciness of the fresh pepper, nothing else. It’s one of the most memorable dishes Cambodia can offer.

Prices are displayed by weight — crabs generally cost between 5 and 8 USD per kilogram, depending on the season and size. A complete meal for two, with drinks and rice, comes to around 15–25 USD. The neighboring restaurants compete on freshness, not prices — all are in the same range. The atmosphere is casual, the tables are plastic, feet often in the cracks of the dock, and that's exactly how it should be.

Tip: arrive for lunch (11:30 AM – 1 PM) rather than in the evening — the arrivals are fresher in the morning and the crabs more active in the tanks. In high season (December–January), it’s best to choose your table before noon to avoid waiting.

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Koh Tonsay — Rabbit Island

Twenty minutes by motorboat from the crab market, Koh Tonsay — literally "Rabbit Island" — is a small island covered in tropical forest with a few fine sandy beaches, emerald-clear water in the dry season, and a life without cars, stable phone networks, or any pressure. It’s one of the least developed islands on the Cambodian coast, and that’s precisely what makes it charming.

The island has four main beaches, connected by forest paths. The main beach (Long Beach), facing the pier, is the liveliest with its bamboo bungalows and grilled fish restaurants on tables in the sand. The secondary beaches, accessible by foot or kayak, are more secluded — a few hammocks, some plastic loungers, sometimes no one around.

Accommodation on the island ranges from rustic bungalows (15–25 USD/night, fan, cold shower, limited electricity in the evening) to a few more comfortable wooden houses with fans and private bathrooms (30–50 USD). Nothing luxurious — and that’s not the point. Sleeping on the island allows you to enjoy the unique atmosphere of motor-free evenings and mornings on the beach before the day-trippers arrive.

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The abandoned modernist villas

This may be the most haunting aspect of Kep, and one of the most unique architectural experiences in Southeast Asia. Scattered among the vegetation on the hills overlooking the coast, dozens of 1960s villas lie in ruins. Some are completely collapsed. Others stand empty, their facades half-covered by the roots of century-old banyans, pools overrun with water lilies, concrete stairs leading to terraces open to the void.

These villas were built by and for the Cambodian elite of the Sihanouk era — high-ranking officials, military personnel, intellectuals, and businesspeople close to the palace. They embodied a vision of tropical modernism inherited from both Le Corbusier and French colonial architecture, adapted to the Gulf’s climate: large terraces, deep awnings, cantilevered volumes, raw concrete. Vann Molyvann, the greatest Cambodian architect of the 20th century, designed several of these buildings. When the Khmer Rouge took the city in 1975, the owners fled or were killed. The villas were looted down to their frames, sometimes burned. The jungle did the rest.

Today, wandering through the villa district — especially in the late afternoon, when light filters through the trees — is an experience of strange beauty, between architectural fascination and memory of violence. A few villas have since been bought and rehabilitated into boutique hotels or restaurants. Others remain freely accessible, on foot or by bike, via unmarked paths.

Tip: a bike ride through the villa district takes one to two hours depending on pace. You can rent a bike in Kep (2–4 USD/day) or ask your accommodation for a map of the most accessible villas. Respect private properties — some villas now belong to families.

Kep National Park

Nestled between the hills of the city and the Vietnamese border, Kep National Park is one of the smallest in the country (5,000 ha) but also one of the most accessible. Its main asset: a marked hiking trail — the Butterfly Trail — which traverses the dense forest on a loop of five to eight kilometers, depending on the chosen route.

The forest is remarkably dense for an area so close to the sea. It is home to hundreds of species of butterflies (hence the name), macaque monkeys watching from the branches, giant lizards, and tropical canopy vegetation with trees over thirty meters tall. A few viewpoints over the Gulf of Thailand open up at the turns of the ridges, with clear weather revealing the silhouettes of Khmer islands on the horizon.

The trail starts at the northern entrance of the park, a few minutes by tuk-tuk from the center of Kep. Access is free or with a symbolic entrance fee (variable). Be sure to wear good walking shoes, bring water, and insect repellent — mosquitoes are active at the forest edge, especially in the evening.

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Kep IGP Pepper

Kep province is part of the area defined by the Protected Geographical Indication of Kampot pepper — the only agricultural IGP in Cambodia, obtained in 2016. While the largest and best-known plantations are on the Kampot side, a few farms in Kep province also produce pepper with remarkable characteristics, grown in basaltic soils similar to those of the southern Khmer plain.

The fresh green pepper is the most emblematic here: it’s the one eaten in whole clusters with the crab from the market. It is harvested before maturity and must be consumed fresh or kept for only a few days — impossible to export as is. That’s why the experience of crab with green pepper has no real equivalent outside the region.

To buy pepper to take home, prefer the producer shops displaying the IGP label, available at the Kep market or in local grocery stores. The dried varieties — black, white, and red — travel well and make the best edible souvenir from your trip.

Kep Beach

Kep has a public beach — the Kep beach — just a few minutes' walk from the crab market. Let’s be honest: it’s not the most beautiful beach in Cambodia. The sand is mixed with pebbles, the waters shallow at the shore, and algae can accumulate during the rainy season. But the beach has its own charm: palm trees, colorful loungers, fresh fruit vendors, and in the background, the silhouette of Koh Tonsay on the horizon.

It’s mainly a sunset beach. When the light turns orange and the fishing boats return to port, the atmosphere suddenly becomes very beautiful. The locals of Kep gather here at the end of the day — children playing in the waves, families on mats, grilled corn vendors.

For a real beach experience, the best option is to take the boat to Koh Tonsay (see above), where the water and sand are incomparable. Kep beach is more of a local hangout than a true seaside destination.

Where to sleep in Kep

The accommodation options in Kep have diversified significantly over the past ten years. Today you can find everything from rustic guesthouses for under 20 USD to charming boutique hotels at 150 USD, some located in rehabilitated villas with views of the gulf.

Where to eat in Kep

The cuisine of Kep revolves almost entirely around seafood — especially crab. Here’s how to navigate:

How to get there and get around

From Kampot

This is the most common and logical route. Kampot and Kep naturally combine — most travelers stay in Kampot and take a half-day or full-day trip to Kep.

From Phnom Penh

Getting around Kep

Kep is a very small town and distances are short. The most practical options:

On nous pose souvent ces questions

Questions fréquentes

One day is enough for the crab market and a walk around town. Two days allow you to add Koh Tonsay and hiking in the national park. Kep combines very well with two to four days in Kampot, which is only a 30-minute drive away.

Yes, direct minibuses connect Phnom Penh to Kep. However, most travelers include Kep in a broader stay that includes Kampot — the two destinations complement each other perfectly and are very close. Passing through Kampot without stopping would be a shame.

Some are on private land and not accessible. Others are visible from the road or in walking areas. A bike ride in the villa neighborhood allows you to see many without entering private properties. A few rehabilitated villas turned into boutique hotels or restaurants are open to the public.

Yes, the crab market operates year-round. However, fishing is more abundant in the dry season (November to April). During the peak rainy season (July–September), the Gulf can be rough, and fishermen's outings may be reduced — crabs may be less available and more expensive on certain days.

Yes, this is the classic combination for a full day from Kampot or Kep: crab lunch at the market, then a boat to Koh Tonsay in the afternoon (20-minute crossing), a few hours on the beach, and return before sunset. Expect a busy day.

Very suitable. The slow pace, accessible beach, Koh Tonsay (perfect for kids), hiking in the national park (butterflies, monkeys), and the crab market make it a very pleasant family destination. Remember to bring sunscreen and insect repellent for forest outings.

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