The Bamboo Train (Norry)
The bamboo train is the most well-known attraction in Battambang — and one of the most unique experiences in Cambodia. The norry in Khmer is a rectangular platform made of bamboo slats, mounted on two axles from reclaimed railway cars from the French colonial era, powered by a small motorcycle engine via a belt. The entire construction weighs barely 50 kg and speeds along the tracks at 40–50 km/h in a metallic clamor, through rice fields, palm trees, and rural villages.
For decades, the norry was a genuine means of local transport — villagers used it to transport goods and passengers on tracks too degraded for official trains. Its traffic rule was of absolute peasant logic: when two norries met on a single track, the one carrying the lighter load would dismantle in a few seconds, let the other pass, and then reassemble. There was no discussion. Adaptation was key.
Today, the tourist version remains on a few kilometers of track, with a round trip of 4 to 6 km through the countryside, a stop in Bamboo village, and the return journey. It’s no longer the wild norry of yesteryear, but the experience remains unique and joyful. The clattering of the wheels on the rail joints, the unexpected speed, the low view over the rice fields — it’s easy to see why travelers talk about it for years after.
- Location: about 7 km southeast of Battambang, in the village of O Dambong.
- Price: around 5–8 USD per person round trip. Negotiation possible outside high season.
- Duration: 1 to 1.5 hours with the stop in the village.
- Access: by tuk-tuk from the center (15–20 min), often included in day tours.
Phnom Banan — The Hill Temple
Located 25 km south of Battambang, perched atop a granite hill, the temple of Phnom Banan is an 11th-century Khmer complex attributed to the reign of Suryavarman II — the same king who built Angkor Wat. Five red sandstone towers crown the ridge, remarkably well-preserved for such an unfrequented site. Access to the complex is via a staircase of 358 steps flanked by carved nagas — the climb is short but breathless, and the view from the top over the Cambodian plain and the meanders of the Sangker is well worth the effort.
Phnom Banan is often compared (in miniature) to the temples of Angkor. The comparison is fair in spirit: same architectural style, same attention to detail in the lintels and friezes, same cosmological orientation. But the atmosphere is radically different — here, no tourist buses, no intrusive vendors, just a few Cambodian visitors and a handful of foreign travelers in a setting of hills and forest. It’s one of the best alternatives to Angkor for understanding Khmer architecture without the crowds.
At the foot of the hill, two caves adorned with stalactites and recent Buddhist shrines can be accessed with a flashlight. A path also descends to the river and sugar palm fields — the region's agricultural specialty.
Phnom Sampeau and the Killing Caves
Located 12 km west of Battambang, the hill of Phnom Sampeau is one of the most historically charged sites in Cambodia. Its summit houses a complex of pagodas and Buddhist shrines with a 360° view over the plain. But it’s what’s halfway up that leaves a lasting impression: the Killing Caves, two natural caves in the limestone where the Khmer Rouge hurled their victims from the top of the cliff between 1975 and 1979.
The caves have been transformed into a memorial. Display cases exhibit the bones of the victims, side by side with Buddhist statues and offerings. The atmosphere is striking and solemn. A large reclining Buddha guards the entrance to the main cave. The visit takes little time but leaves a lasting impression — it’s one of the most honest places in Cambodia regarding its own history.
Phnom Sampeau is also known for its bat exodus. Every evening at sunset, millions of bats emerge from a cave halfway up the cliff, spiraling into the sky in a column that can last twenty to thirty minutes — a dizzying natural spectacle. Local vendors set up food and drink stalls at the foot of the hill for the occasion. Arrive an hour before sunset to secure a good spot.
- Entrance: a few dollars (variable). Access to the caves and summit included.
- Best times: in the morning for the caves and the view (avoid midday heat), and at sunset for the bats.
- Access: by tuk-tuk from Battambang (20–25 min), by motorcycle or bicycle for the more adventurous.
The Colonial Old Town
Battambang boasts the finest French colonial old town in Cambodia — better preserved than in Kampot, more coherent than in Phnom Penh. Several streets around the central market and the banks of the Sangker feature well-maintained facades from the 1920s to 1950s: arches, wooden shutters, wrought iron balconies, canal tile roofs, pastel colors. Some buildings have been carefully restored, while others retain their original patina, with their wear as proof of authenticity.
A stroll along the banks of the Sangker (River Road) is the best starting point. It runs along the river for about a kilometer, with colonial facades on one side and fishing boats on the other. The central market (Phsar Nath) is an Art Deco building from the 1930s still in operation — exotic fruits from the northwest, fish from Tonlé Sap, spices, clothing, and local crafts bustle in a lively atmosphere.
Battambang is also known for its art galleries. The city has been a refuge for many Cambodian artists during and after the Khmer Rouge period, and this tradition has continued. Several galleries showcase painters, sculptors, and contemporary Khmer artists — some offer workshops open to the public. The Sammaki Gallery and a few spaces in the artists' quarter are worth a visit.
The Battambang Museum, modest yet well-documented, presents collections of Khmer art and objects from rural life in the northwest. A few interesting archaeological pieces, including lintels and statuettes from nearby sites.
The Phare Ponleu Selpak Circus
Phare Ponleu Selpak — "the brilliance of the arts" in Khmer — is much more than a circus. It’s an arts school founded in 1994 in Battambang by Cambodian artists who returned from refugee status in Thailand after the Khmer Rouge years. It now hosts several hundred students facing social or economic difficulties, teaching them circus, dance, music, theater, painting, and graphic arts for free.
Public performances take place several evenings a week under a tent set up at the school. What the students present is strikingly professional: aerial acrobatics, object balancing, juggling, contortion, all staged in narratives that speak directly to Khmer history and culture. A show might tell the story of a Tonlé Sap fisherman, the resistance during the Khmer Rouge, or a traditional Khmer tale — with an energy and sincerity that resonate differently than pure tourist performances.
Battambang is where Phare was born. The Phare circus in Siem Reap, better known to tourists, is a spin-off of the original project. Seeing the show here, at the source, with the students of the school in their own city, is a different experience altogether.
- Shows: several evenings a week (check the schedule on the Phare website or with your accommodation).
- Price: 18–22 USD depending on seat category. Includes a visit to the school before the show.
- Reservation: strongly recommended, especially in high season. Available online or at the box office.
Cycling in the Countryside
The countryside around Battambang is one of the most beautiful to explore by bike in Cambodia. The back roads are flat, lightly trafficked, and weave through a landscape of rice fields, sugar palm trees, stilt villages, and small countryside temples that few visit. The region is Cambodia's rice granary and orchard — Battambang oranges, mangoes, longans, and dragon fruits grow abundantly in the farms you pass by on your bike.
Several bike tours depart from the center of Battambang and last from two hours to a full day. The must-sees: the sugar palm road (where palm sugar makers still work in a traditional manner), the potters' village loop (a centuries-old tradition), and the small countryside pagoda circuit, some dating back to the 11th century.
Most guesthouses and boutique hotels rent bikes (2–5 USD/day) or e-bikes (8–15 USD/day for longer distances). Local bike guides are available for about 15–25 USD per day — a good option to ensure you don’t get lost and understand what you’re seeing.
{{COMPONENT_BATTAMBANG_CTA_VELO}}Cruise on the Sangker
The Sangker River, which flows through Battambang before emptying into Tonlé Sap Lake, offers one of the most peaceful excursions in the city. Local boats offer trips in the early morning or late afternoon, along stretches between Battambang and the surrounding riverside villages.
The most legendary cruise in the region is the Battambang–Siem Reap route via Tonlé Sap — a crossing of 4 to 8 hours depending on the season, on a slow boat that glides along the overgrown banks, passes floating villages, and crosses the lake. It’s one of the most picturesque journeys in Southeast Asia. Water levels vary greatly depending on the season: in the high rainy season (September–November), the trip is fast and spectacular; in the dry season, some stretches are shallow, and the journey may take longer.
- Local cruise (Battambang): 2 to 3 hours on the Sangker, 10–20 USD/person. Sunset recommended.
- Battambang–Siem Reap route: 15–25 USD/person, early morning departure. Duration varies by season. Less comfortable than a bus but infinitely more beautiful.
Where to Sleep in Battambang
Battambang has a solid accommodation offering for a provincial city — several character boutique hotels located in colonial houses, well-kept family guesthouses, and a few resorts on the outskirts.
- In the city center / by the Sangker: the ideal location for everything within walking distance. Several boutique hotels in restored colonial villas — calm atmosphere, lounges overlooking the river, well-prepared breakfasts. Prices: 40–90 USD/night. Recommended places include La Villa (in a 1930s colonial villa) and a few small hotels by the riverside.
- Budget guesthouses: many in the alleys around the market, starting from 15–25 USD/night. Simple comfort, clean and well-located.
- Outside the center: a few lodges and resorts in the surrounding countryside, with pools and gardens. Prices: 60–120 USD/night. Ideal for travelers seeking more tranquility.
Where to Eat in Battambang
Battambang is renowned throughout Cambodia for the quality of its local products — fruits, vegetables, rice, fish from Tonlé Sap — and its street food. Here are some must-visit spots:
- Morning Market (Phsar Nath): the best place to eat Cambodian food at local prices. Bai sach chrouk (grilled pork with rice), noodle soup, lok lak. Less than 2 USD for a full meal. Best to go before 8 a.m.
- Battambang Oranges: the region's oranges are famous throughout the country. Freshly squeezed orange juice sold roadside is a local institution — sweet, fragrant, nothing like imported oranges.
- Riverside Restaurants: several restaurants with terraces overlooking the river offer decent Khmer cuisine and a few international dishes in a pleasant setting. Reasonable prices (5–12 USD per dish).
- Café Scene: Battambang has a serious café scene, driven by the presence of artists and expatriates. A few café-galleries serve Khmer coffee and pastries in the pleasant settings of rehabilitated colonial houses — among the most enjoyable atmospheres in the city.
How to Get There
From Siem Reap
- Bus / Minibus: 3 to 4 hours, 5–10 USD. Several operators, morning departures. The simplest option.
- Shared Taxi: 2.5 to 3 hours, 8–12 USD/seat. Faster and just a bit more expensive.
- Slow Boat (via Tonlé Sap): 4 to 8 hours depending on the season, 15–25 USD. Spectacular but long. Works best from July to November (high water). Check available operators — services have changed in recent years.
From Phnom Penh
- Bus / Minibus: 5 to 6 hours, 7–12 USD. Several departures daily.
- Shared Taxi: 4 to 5 hours, 10–15 USD/seat.
- Private Taxi: 50–80 USD for the full trip.
Getting Around Battambang
- By Bike: the city center is perfectly flat and bike-friendly. Rentals available at most accommodations (2–5 USD/day).
- By Tuk-Tuk: for excursions outside the city (bamboo train, temples). Local drivers usually offer day packages for classic sites (20–30 USD covering all sites).
- On Foot: the old town, market, and banks of the Sangker are entirely walkable.
Questions fréquentes
Two days is the minimum: one for the bamboo train, Phnom Banan, and Phnom Sampeau, and a second for the old town, cycling in the countryside, and the Phare circus in the evening. Three days allows you to do everything without rushing and to add a cruise on the Sangker.
Yes, without hesitation. Battambang is one of the most underrated destinations in Cambodia. Most travelers who pass through regret not having planned more time there. It easily fits into an itinerary of Siem Reap–Battambang–Phnom Penh (or vice versa).
The original bamboo train — the one that villagers actually used to transport goods — has largely disappeared with the gradual rehabilitation of Cambodia's railways. The current tourist version remains true to its principle (the same platform, the same tracks, the same engine) but is clearly organized for visitors. It remains a unique and enjoyable experience.
In size, no — it is a much more modest complex. In atmosphere, it has what Angkor has lost: silence, the absence of crowds, and the feeling of being truly alone in front of stones that are a thousand years old. It is a temple to see for what it is, not as a substitute for Angkor.
Yes, the phenomenon occurs every evening at dusk, all year round. The exact departure time varies by season — around 5:30 PM to 6:30 PM. Arrive 45 minutes before sunset to enjoy the spectacle in good conditions.
Battambang is one of the quietest and safest cities in Cambodia. Crime against tourists is very low there. Usual precautions apply (do not display valuables, be careful at night outside well-lit areas), but the city does not present any particular risks.