The bamboo train (norry)
The bamboo train is the most famous attraction in Battambang — and one of the most unique experiences in Cambodia. The norry in Khmer is a rectangular platform made of bamboo slats, mounted on two axles from railway cars salvaged from the French colonial tracks, powered by a small motorcycle engine via a drive belt. The entire construction weighs barely 50 kg and speeds along the tracks at 40–50 km/h amid metallic noise, through rice fields, palm trees, and rural villages.
For decades, the norry was a real means of local transport — villagers used it to transport goods and passengers on tracks too degraded for official trains. Its traffic rule was of absolute peasant logic: when two norries met on a single track, the one carrying the lighter load would disassemble in seconds, let the other pass, and reassemble. There was no discussion. Adaptation was key.
Today, the tourist version remains on a few kilometers of track, with a round trip of 4 to 6 km through the countryside, a stop in a Bamboo village, and the return journey. It’s no longer the wild norry of yesteryear, but the experience remains unique and joyful. The clattering of wheels on rail joints, the unexpected speed, the low view over the rice fields — it’s clear why travelers talk about it for years afterward.
- Location: about 7 km southeast of Battambang, O Dambong village.
- Price: around 5–8 USD per person round trip. Negotiation possible outside high season.
- Duration: 1 to 1.5 hours with the stop at the village.
- Access: by tuk-tuk from the center (15–20 min), often included in day tours.
Phnom Banan — the hill temple
Located 25 km south of Battambang, perched atop a granite hill, the temple of Phnom Banan is an 11th-century Khmer complex attributed to the reign of Suryavarman II — the same king who built Angkor Wat. Five red sandstone towers crown the ridge, remarkably well-preserved for such an uncrowded site. Access to the complex is via a staircase of 358 steps flanked by sculpted nagas — the climb is short but breathless, and the view from the top over the Cambodian plain and the meanders of the Sangker is well worth the effort.
Phnom Banan is often compared (in miniature) to the temples of Angkor. The comparison is fair in spirit: same architectural style, same attention to detail in the lintels and friezes, same cosmological orientation. But the atmosphere is radically different — here, no tourist buses, no intrusive vendors, just a few Cambodian visitors and a handful of foreign travelers in a setting of hills and forest. It’s one of the best alternatives to Angkor for understanding Khmer architecture without the crowd.
At the foot of the hill, two caves adorned with stalactites and recent Buddhist shrines are accessible with a flashlight. A path also descends towards the river and sugar palm fields — the agricultural specialty of the region.
Phnom Sampeau and the Killing Caves
Located 12 km west of Battambang, the hill of Phnom Sampeau is one of the most historically charged sites in Cambodia. Its summit houses a complex of pagodas and Buddhist shrines with a 360° view over the plain. But it’s what’s halfway up that leaves a lasting impression: the Killing Caves, two natural caves in limestone where the Khmer Rouge threw their victims from the top of the cliff between 1975 and 1979.
The caves have been transformed into a memorial. Display cases exhibit the bones of the victims, side by side with Buddhist statues and offerings. The atmosphere is striking and solemn. A large reclining Buddha guards the entrance to the main cave. The visit takes little time but leaves a lasting impression — it’s one of the most honest places in Cambodia regarding its own history.
Phnom Sampeau is also known for its bat exodus. Every evening at sunset, millions of bats emerge from a cave halfway up the cliff, spiraling into the sky in a column that can last twenty to thirty minutes — a dizzying natural spectacle. Local vendors set up food and drink stalls at the foot of the hill for the occasion. Arrive an hour before sunset to secure a good spot.
- Entry: a few dollars (variable). Access to the caves and summit included.
- Best times: morning for the caves and view (avoid midday heat), and sunset for the bats.
- Access: by tuk-tuk from Battambang (20–25 min), by motorcycle or bicycle for the more adventurous.
The colonial old town
Battambang has the most beautiful French colonial old town in Cambodia — better preserved than in Kampot, more coherent than in Phnom Penh. Several streets around the central market and the banks of the Sangker feature well-maintained facades from the 1920s to 1950s: arches, wooden shutters, wrought iron balconies, tiled roofs, pastel colors. Some buildings have been carefully restored, while others retain their original patina, with wear as proof of authenticity.
A stroll along the Sangker riverbank (River Road) is the best starting point. It runs along the river for about a kilometer, with colonial facades on one side and fishing boats on the other. The central market (Phsar Nath) is an Art Deco building from the 1930s still in operation — exotic fruits from the northwest countryside, fish from Tonlé Sap, spices, clothing, and local crafts bustle in a lively atmosphere.
Battambang is also known for its art galleries. The city has been a refuge for many Cambodian artists during and after the Khmer Rouge period, and this tradition has continued. Several galleries showcase Khmer painters, sculptors, and contemporary artists — some offer workshops open to the public. The Sammaki Gallery and a few spaces in the artists' district are worth a visit.
The Battambang Museum, modest but well-documented, presents collections of Khmer art and objects from rural life in the northwest. A few interesting archaeological pieces, including lintels and statuettes from surrounding sites.
The Phare Ponleu Selpak circus
Phare Ponleu Selpak — "the brilliance of the arts" in Khmer — is much more than a circus. It’s an arts school founded in 1994 in Battambang by Cambodian artists who returned from Thailand after the Khmer Rouge years. It now hosts several hundred students facing social or economic difficulties, teaching them circus, dance, music, theater, painting, and graphic arts for free.
Public performances take place several evenings a week under a big top set up at the school. What the students showcase is strikingly professional: aerial acrobatics, object balancing, juggling, contortion, all staged in narratives that speak directly to Khmer history and culture. A performance might tell the story of a Tonlé Sap fisherman, resistance during the Khmer Rouge, or a traditional Khmer tale — with an energy and sincerity that resonate differently from pure tourist shows.
Battambang is where Phare was born. The Phare circus in Siem Reap, better known to tourists, is a spin-off of the original project. Seeing the show here, at the source, with the school’s students in their own town, is an experience of a different nature.
- Shows: several evenings a week (check the schedule on Phare's website or with your accommodation).
- Price: 18–22 USD depending on seat category. Includes a visit to the school before the show.
- Reservation: highly recommended, especially in high season. Available online or at the box office.
Cycling in the countryside
The countryside around Battambang is one of the most beautiful to explore by bike in Cambodia. Secondary roads are flat, lightly traveled, and cross a landscape of rice fields, sugar palms, stilt villages, and small countryside temples that no one visits. The region is Cambodia's rice granary and orchard — Battambang oranges, mangoes, longans, and dragon fruits grow abundantly in the farms you pass by on your bike.
Several bike tours depart from the center of Battambang and last from two hours to a full day. Must-sees include the route of the sugar palms (sugar palm makers still work in a traditional manner), the loop of the pottery villages (a centuries-old tradition), and the circuit of the small countryside pagodas some dating back to the 11th century.
Most guesthouses and boutique hotels rent bikes (2–5 USD/day) or e-bikes (8–15 USD/day for longer distances). Local bike guides are available for about 15–25 USD per day — a good option to ensure you don't get lost and understand what you see.
{{COMPONENT_BATTAMBANG_CTA_VELO}}Cruise on the Sangker
The Sangker River, which flows through Battambang before emptying into Tonlé Sap Lake, offers one of the most peaceful excursions in the city. Local boats offer trips in the early morning or late afternoon, on stretches between Battambang and the surrounding riverside villages.
The most legendary cruise in the region is the Battambang–Siem Reap route via Tonlé Sap — a crossing of 4 to 8 hours depending on the season, on a slow boat that glides along the vegetation-covered banks, passes floating villages, and crosses the lake. It’s one of the most picturesque routes in Southeast Asia. Water levels vary greatly depending on the season: in the high rainy season (September–November), the route is fast and spectacular; in the dry season, some stretches are shallow and the journey may take longer.
- Local cruise (Battambang): 2 to 3 hours on the Sangker, 10–20 USD/person. Sunset recommended.
- Battambang–Siem Reap route: 15–25 USD/person, early morning departure. Duration varies by season. Less comfortable than a bus but infinitely more beautiful.
Where to sleep in Battambang
Battambang has a solid accommodation offer for a provincial town — several character boutique hotels set in colonial houses, well-maintained family guesthouses, and a few resorts on the outskirts.
- In the city center / along the Sangker: the ideal location to do everything on foot. Several boutique hotels in restored colonial villas — calm atmosphere, lounges overlooking the river, well-prepared breakfasts. Prices: 40–90 USD/night. Recommended addresses include La Villa (in a 1930s colonial villa) and a few small riverside hotels.
- Budget guesthouses: many in the alleys around the market, starting from 15–25 USD/night. Simple comfort, clean and well-located.
- Outside the center: a few lodges and resorts in the surrounding countryside, with pools and gardens. Prices: 60–120 USD/night. Ideal for travelers seeking more tranquility.
Where to eat in Battambang
Battambang is renowned throughout Cambodia for the quality of its local products — fruits, vegetables, rice, fish from Tonlé Sap — and its street food. Here are some must-visit spots:
- Morning market (Phsar Nath): the best place to eat Cambodian food at local prices. Bai sach chrouk (rice with grilled pork), noodle soup, lok lak. Less than 2 USD for a full meal. Best before 8 AM.
- Battambang oranges: the region's oranges are famous throughout the country. Freshly squeezed orange juices sold by the roadside are a local institution — sweet, fragrant, nothing like imported oranges.
- Riverside restaurants: several restaurants with terraces by the river offer decent Khmer cuisine and some international dishes in a pleasant setting. Reasonable prices (5–12 USD per dish).
- Café scene: Battambang has a serious café scene, driven by the presence of artists and expatriates. Some café-galleries serve Khmer coffee and pastries in the settings of rehabilitated colonial houses — among the most pleasant atmospheres in the city.
How to get there
From Siem Reap
- Bus / minibus: 3 to 4 hours, 5–10 USD. Several operators, morning departures. The simplest option.
- Shared taxi: 2.5 to 3 hours, 8–12 USD/seat. Faster and only slightly more expensive.
- Slow boat (via Tonlé Sap): 4 to 8 hours depending on the season, 15–25 USD. Spectacular but long. Works best from July to November (high waters). Check available operators — services have changed in recent years.
From Phnom Penh
- Bus / minibus: 5 to 6 hours, 7–12 USD. Several departures daily.
- Shared taxi: 4 to 5 hours, 10–15 USD/seat.
- Private taxi: 50–80 USD for the full trip.
Getting around Battambang
- By bike: the city center is perfectly flat and bike-friendly. Rentals available at most accommodations (2–5 USD/day).
- By tuk-tuk: for excursions outside the city (bamboo train, temples). Local drivers usually offer day packages for classic sites (20–30 USD for all sites).
- On foot: the old town, market, and Sangker banks can all be explored on foot.
Questions fréquentes
Two days is the minimum: one for the bamboo train, Phnom Banan, and Phnom Sampeau, and a second for the old town, cycling in the countryside, and the Phare circus in the evening. Three days allows you to do everything without rushing and to add a cruise on the Sangker.
Yes, without hesitation. Battambang is one of the most underrated destinations in Cambodia. Most travelers who pass through regret not having planned more time there. It easily fits into an itinerary of Siem Reap–Battambang–Phnom Penh (or vice versa).
The original bamboo train — the one that villagers actually used to transport goods — has largely disappeared with the gradual rehabilitation of Cambodia's railways. The current tourist version remains true to its principle (the same platform, the same tracks, the same engine) but is clearly organized for visitors. It remains a unique and enjoyable experience.
In size, no — it is a much more modest complex. In atmosphere, it has what Angkor has lost: silence, the absence of crowds, and the feeling of being truly alone in front of stones that are a thousand years old. It is a temple to see for what it is, not as a substitute for Angkor.
Yes, the phenomenon occurs every evening at dusk, all year round. The exact departure time varies by season — around 5:30 PM to 6:30 PM. Arrive 45 minutes before sunset to enjoy the spectacle in good conditions.
Battambang is one of the quietest and safest cities in Cambodia. Crime against tourists is very low there. Usual precautions apply (do not display valuables, be careful at night outside well-lit areas), but the city does not present any particular risks.