Morning (6am–10am): Markets
Cambodian breakfast is taken at the market or in a neighborhood eatery, never in a restaurant. Here are three morning options:
Num banh chok — cold rice noodles with green curry sauce and fresh toppings. Served only in the morning at markets. Preparation starts at 4am. Price: 0.75-1 USD.
Bai sach chrouk — grilled pork over charcoal with rice and soup. Stands open at 6am and close when the rice runs out, often before 9:30am. Price: 1-1.50 USD.
Kuy teav — noodle soup with pork or beef broth. Available in the morning and at noon, in markets and street stalls. Price: 1.50-2.50 USD.
Lunch (11am–2pm): Local Eateries
This is peak street food time. The streets adjacent to markets and commercial areas fill with eateries (often just a few plastic tables on the sidewalk in front of a house). The menu is written on a board or announced loudly — in Khmer. Point to what your neighbor is eating.
Typical lunch dishes: rice with stir-fried meat, grilled fish, curry, omelet. Budget: 1.50-3 USD per dish with rice.
Evening (5pm–10pm): Night Markets and Skewers
Night markets come alive at dusk. You’ll find skewers over charcoal (meat, seafood, vegetables), smoky woks, dessert stalls (sticky rice, caramelized bananas), and fresh fruit juices.
Must-Try Street Food
Green pepper beef skewers (ang saach ko) — quick grill over charcoal, dipped in a lime-pepper sauce. The quintessential Cambodian evening snack. Price: 1-2 USD for 3-4 skewers.
Street lok lak — the same recipe as in restaurants, but cooked in front of you in a smoky wok. A favorite culinary memory for many travelers in Cambodia.
Banh mi khmer — the colonial baguette recycled into a sandwich with local fillings (pâté, pickled vegetables, sauces). 0.50-1.50 USD. Available in the morning.
Grilled insects — tarantulas, crickets, silk worms. A specialty of Skuon (a stopover town between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap). Sold in bags at markets. Just for fun.
Guided Street Food Tours
In Phnom Penh especially, street food tours by tuk-tuk or bike allow you to discover 6-8 stalls in an evening with a guide who explains each dish and orders for you. Useful in the first few days to get your bearings.
GetYourGuide — Street Food Tours Phnom Penh & Siem ReapGuided evening in the markets · 6-8 tastings included · Small group
Questions fréquentes
Point to what someone else is eating, or use Google Translate in camera mode to decipher menus in Khmer. A smile and a gesture towards the steaming pot usually do the trick. Street food vendors are used to tourists — they understand "one" when you hold up a finger.
The "official" night market in Siem Reap (Angkor Night Market, Pub Street) is very touristy with inflated prices. For something more local, head to Psar Leu or the market behind the bus station — Cambodians eat there in the evening.